Correlophus (Rhacodactylus) Ciliatus
The Crested Gecko
Crested Geckos hail from an island known as New Caledonia, off the coast of Australia. They were only recently re-discovered back in 1994 after they were thought to be extinct. Their habitat of origin is the Isle of Pines. The wedge-shaped head and elongated, pointed scales along the ridges of their eyes, head and dorsal are what give the crested gecko its name. The Crested Gecko can appear to be a variety of different colors and pattern variations. Most geckos will have a base color of brown, yellow/orange, or red. They have incredibly intricate feet, looking some-what webbed with small claws on the end of each toe. You will almost never see a tail on a wild crested gecko. This is because once it is dropped they lack the ability to regenerate it. This being said you should never purposefully or make sure to never accidentally grab a crested gecko by their tail. This specie is omnivorous meaning that they eat both fruit and insects in the wild. They are also nocturnal, coming out during the night when they are mainly active until sunrise. If you decide to buy a crested gecko you must be prepared for caring for the animal for up to 15 or more years.
Behavior
Crested Geckos are not to be associated like any
mammal pet; they have a great tendency to be very jumpy and skittish. They will
take any escape route they possibly can when you are handling it if the animal
has not become accustomed to your scent or presence; however, this also does
not mean that they will snuggle with you after they have become accustomed to
you after a period of time. They will learn to tolerate you handling them as
they grow older. They are fun little animals, though and are incredibly
lovable. These geckos are nocturnal, and as such night-time is the best
possible time to interact with your gecko as they will be lively rather than
boring sleepy heads.
It is best to handle your gecko over a flat surface to avoid them hurting themselves.
It is best to handle your gecko over a flat surface to avoid them hurting themselves.
Health
A healthy gecko is dependent on several factors. For starters, a good way to determine if you have a healthy gecko before or after purchase (please check out any gecko before you purchase them online, at a pet store, or at a reptile show) is to monitor its eating and pooping habits. If you see solid brown poop with a white urate, then that is a good indicator that it is eating and is generally healthy! If you aren't fully aware of reptile anatomy, rather than having separate orifices for excretion, they have one orifice that does it all - called a cloaca. The cloaca, also referred to as the vent, is located at the base of the tail and is where copulation and excretion occurs. When a Crested Gecko defecates it will release both fecal matter and a white, highly concentrated substance called urate. Feces should never be extremely runny or bloody, this is a sign of major trouble.
Health Problems
Metabolic Bone Disease. You also should note of any disturbing deformities such as a kinked tail, bent back or dislocated jaw. These are common signs of an illness known as Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), which is usually caused by malnutrition. Not getting enough calcium is a large factor in causing this disease. If you suspect your gecko has this disease you should adjust your husbandry accordingly, check for signs of MBD and if anything contact a licensed exotic veterinarian.
Floppy Tail Syndrome. Another causal factor for a misaligned tail is if your gecko frequently hangs upside down while sleeping they can develop what is called Floppy Tail Syndrome, or FTS. Sometimes FTS is unavoidable, but very easy to treat and isn't a high cause for concern. Some cases of FTS have led Crested Geckos to swing their hips out of line though, and in order to avoid this we simply treat it by making sure the animal has plenty of spaces in its enclosure to lay horizontally in.
Skin infections. Crested Geckos are also prone to skin infections due to a too wet or too dry living space. Too wet will cause skin lesions, boils, and blistering. Too dry will ultimately cause your animal to dehydrate very quickly, and the skin will characteristically look very dry and shriveled – Not to be confused with the shedding process. This will have wrinkly, shriveled skin as well but the gecko’s coloration will be incredibly pale and loose.
Obesity. One last factor of gecko health is obesity. A common misconception is that a fat reptile is a healthy reptile – this is not true. Crested Geckos, like humans, have different builds and frames to their own individual bodies. Because of this, two geckos both at the 50 gram mark may look more plump and fatty compared to the other which may have a bit of roundness to the belly but not a rotund shape. Maintaining weight can be difficult with reptiles kept in captivity, as they never stop growing their entire lives. One thing to remember would be that just because your gecko will eat it, doesn’t mean you should give it to them. You are taking the responsibility of caring for this animal and its life; therefore you should only feed it what it needs and nothing more. If you have an overweight gecko some tips to help it lose weight would be to invest in a larger enclosure, give it some room to roam about and burn off calories, and lastly to feed it less than you already do or less frequently.
Floppy Tail Syndrome. Another causal factor for a misaligned tail is if your gecko frequently hangs upside down while sleeping they can develop what is called Floppy Tail Syndrome, or FTS. Sometimes FTS is unavoidable, but very easy to treat and isn't a high cause for concern. Some cases of FTS have led Crested Geckos to swing their hips out of line though, and in order to avoid this we simply treat it by making sure the animal has plenty of spaces in its enclosure to lay horizontally in.
Skin infections. Crested Geckos are also prone to skin infections due to a too wet or too dry living space. Too wet will cause skin lesions, boils, and blistering. Too dry will ultimately cause your animal to dehydrate very quickly, and the skin will characteristically look very dry and shriveled – Not to be confused with the shedding process. This will have wrinkly, shriveled skin as well but the gecko’s coloration will be incredibly pale and loose.
Obesity. One last factor of gecko health is obesity. A common misconception is that a fat reptile is a healthy reptile – this is not true. Crested Geckos, like humans, have different builds and frames to their own individual bodies. Because of this, two geckos both at the 50 gram mark may look more plump and fatty compared to the other which may have a bit of roundness to the belly but not a rotund shape. Maintaining weight can be difficult with reptiles kept in captivity, as they never stop growing their entire lives. One thing to remember would be that just because your gecko will eat it, doesn’t mean you should give it to them. You are taking the responsibility of caring for this animal and its life; therefore you should only feed it what it needs and nothing more. If you have an overweight gecko some tips to help it lose weight would be to invest in a larger enclosure, give it some room to roam about and burn off calories, and lastly to feed it less than you already do or less frequently.
Sexing
When you want to determine the sex of your gecko you can use a magnifying jeweler's loupe to check for pre-anal pores. These can be identified by looking just above the cloacal spurs and on the undersides of the hind legs. On a male, before it drops its hemi-penal bulge you will see a "v" shaped row of black dots on the scales. On a female there is an absence of these pores and a bulge.
If you cannot get your hands on a loupe the next best thing is to watch your gecko grow and whether it drops a bulge on you or not!
If you cannot get your hands on a loupe the next best thing is to watch your gecko grow and whether it drops a bulge on you or not!
Housing
Before I get into details about this matter I need to point out one very important factor about keeping Crested Geckos: HOUSE SEPARATELY. Crested Geckos are not social animals, they are very solitary and will bite, nip, and attack tank mates at any given time. I have heard many horror stories of tails dropping, limbs having to be amputated and so on. I also acknowledge stories where some people have successfully kept these geckos together with no issues; however, these geckos were peaceful with each other one day and territorial the next. It's better to be SAFE THAN SORRY. I promise you.
There are many kinds of housing ideas you could use for your crested gecko. The main thing you're going to want to remember is that they are arboreal reptiles. This simply means they like vertical enclosures rather than horizontal ones such as you would give a bearded dragon. They also appreciate tons of foliage in which to hide in during the day and vines to get around their enclosure during the night while they're active.
Ways that you could provide this type of enclosure is by purchasing an ExoTerra or Zoomed reptile terrarium from your local pet store or online. They produce specific tanks perfect for arboreal reptiles. When you purchase an ExoTerra or ZooMed tank, these are perfect for your sub-adult to adult crested gecko. If you're looking to house a hatchling or juvenile you're going to want something a bit smaller. A medium to large sized Kritter Keeper works perfect for them. If you cannot afford or do not have access to these brands of tanks, simply buy a ten or twenty gallon tank and place it on its side so it is sitting upright in a vertical fashion.
Another cheap way to set up a habitat for your gecko is to purchase a Sterlite bin with snapping or locking lids. If you do go this route I advise you to go out and purchase a cheap wood burning tool that has a rounded tip to puncture ventilation holes for the bin to prevent mold growth.
So:
Housing Juveniles
When housing juveniles one basic thing to keep in mind is to make their food easily accessible. Before throwing in a ton of foliage and just filling up your tank think about how your gecko will reach the food you put in. Whether up on a magnetic feeder or set on the bottom of the tank the bowl of food should be out in the open and easy to find so you will have a healthy gecko that is eating regularly.
I like to keep my juvenile enclosures safe and simple. Very little foliage, but just enough to make the gecko feel secure and have an arboreal escape. I also like to have at least one or two hides with one being a humid hide in case the gecko seeks out more humidity or looks for aid in shedding. A humid hide is basically a dark place that is damp (preferably with sphagnum moss) where your gecko can escape to feel safe. And one last important addition would be the water dish, shallow enough to where the gecko couldn't accidentally drown itself.
Housing Adults
Never house two geckos together regardless of gender unless you have the intent of breeding them both. Even then, they should be removed after successful copulation and both specimens be within breeding standards briefed in the "Breeding" section of this care sheet.
You could pretty much go all out if you prefer with setting up decor for an adult's enclosure. Still keep in mind that they must be able to find their food, they're simply better at it than little juveniles. The basic essentials are all still there, however. Shallow water dish, 2 hides (one for humidity), and various foliage and vines for support and climbing.
There are many kinds of housing ideas you could use for your crested gecko. The main thing you're going to want to remember is that they are arboreal reptiles. This simply means they like vertical enclosures rather than horizontal ones such as you would give a bearded dragon. They also appreciate tons of foliage in which to hide in during the day and vines to get around their enclosure during the night while they're active.
Ways that you could provide this type of enclosure is by purchasing an ExoTerra or Zoomed reptile terrarium from your local pet store or online. They produce specific tanks perfect for arboreal reptiles. When you purchase an ExoTerra or ZooMed tank, these are perfect for your sub-adult to adult crested gecko. If you're looking to house a hatchling or juvenile you're going to want something a bit smaller. A medium to large sized Kritter Keeper works perfect for them. If you cannot afford or do not have access to these brands of tanks, simply buy a ten or twenty gallon tank and place it on its side so it is sitting upright in a vertical fashion.
Another cheap way to set up a habitat for your gecko is to purchase a Sterlite bin with snapping or locking lids. If you do go this route I advise you to go out and purchase a cheap wood burning tool that has a rounded tip to puncture ventilation holes for the bin to prevent mold growth.
So:
- Hatchling - juvenile: Large/Extra large Kritter Keeper(KK) (8 qt. to 16 qt. bin)
- Sub-adult - adult: 10 - 20 gallon vertical enclosure (26 qt. to 56 qt. bin)
- Juvenile - sub-adult: 12x12x18
- Adult: 18x18x24
Housing Juveniles
When housing juveniles one basic thing to keep in mind is to make their food easily accessible. Before throwing in a ton of foliage and just filling up your tank think about how your gecko will reach the food you put in. Whether up on a magnetic feeder or set on the bottom of the tank the bowl of food should be out in the open and easy to find so you will have a healthy gecko that is eating regularly.
I like to keep my juvenile enclosures safe and simple. Very little foliage, but just enough to make the gecko feel secure and have an arboreal escape. I also like to have at least one or two hides with one being a humid hide in case the gecko seeks out more humidity or looks for aid in shedding. A humid hide is basically a dark place that is damp (preferably with sphagnum moss) where your gecko can escape to feel safe. And one last important addition would be the water dish, shallow enough to where the gecko couldn't accidentally drown itself.
Housing Adults
Never house two geckos together regardless of gender unless you have the intent of breeding them both. Even then, they should be removed after successful copulation and both specimens be within breeding standards briefed in the "Breeding" section of this care sheet.
You could pretty much go all out if you prefer with setting up decor for an adult's enclosure. Still keep in mind that they must be able to find their food, they're simply better at it than little juveniles. The basic essentials are all still there, however. Shallow water dish, 2 hides (one for humidity), and various foliage and vines for support and climbing.
Requirements
Crested Geckos do incredibly well in temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees, room temperature. It is ok for the temperature to go down below 70 during the night, but not below 65 degrees. Any temperature above 80 degrees will stress your gecko. While not completely neccessary, you could choose to give your gecko a temperature gradient if you are unable to control your ambient temperatures well. Keep in mind that these temperatures are not to be put to the extremes and a proper thermometer should always be used.
Since crested geckos are nocturnal and maintain well in room temperatures there is absolutely no need for a UVB or heat lamp. They will receive any and all their required nutrients from their food. They do need a constant day/night cycle, however. It is suggested to keep them in a room with windows so as to let natural sunlight and moonlight in. Do not place your geckos directly in front of windows or doors.
When trying to decide what substrate you should go with, I always recommend a simple layer of paper towel. It's cheap, easy to clean, and you only have to change it out once a week along with daily spot checks for poops. If you would like a more naturalistic look, a good idea would be to use a mixture of Hydroton Clay balls, screen mesh, EcoEarth and sphagnum peat moss. Of course you need to layer these, not mix them all together. This method is to prevent mold growth within your tank. If you would simply like to use the EcoEarth a great way to prevent mold is to utilize springtail isopods. These are tiny little things that will eat all decaying waste and mold matter inside your tank and are much too small for the geckos to eat.
Crested geckos require a cycle of humidity throughout the day. You should mist heavily at night and lightly the following morning, while allowing the enclosure to slowly dry out during the day. Keeping this constant cycle will allow them a more comfortable shed and you will be avoiding any possible illnesses or dehydration and prevent the encouragement of mold growth. Do not over mist, for the geckos could develop respiratory infections and other nasty things. I like keeping shallow water dishes inside my gecko's enclosures so they have a constant supply of water and it also helps keeping humidity up. I recommend changing the water every two days to keep it fresh and usually your geckos will poop in it.
When Crested Geckos shed they will do so all in one piece all the while pulling it off with their mouth and consuming it. It is a rare occasion to see a crested shed its skin.
Since crested geckos are nocturnal and maintain well in room temperatures there is absolutely no need for a UVB or heat lamp. They will receive any and all their required nutrients from their food. They do need a constant day/night cycle, however. It is suggested to keep them in a room with windows so as to let natural sunlight and moonlight in. Do not place your geckos directly in front of windows or doors.
When trying to decide what substrate you should go with, I always recommend a simple layer of paper towel. It's cheap, easy to clean, and you only have to change it out once a week along with daily spot checks for poops. If you would like a more naturalistic look, a good idea would be to use a mixture of Hydroton Clay balls, screen mesh, EcoEarth and sphagnum peat moss. Of course you need to layer these, not mix them all together. This method is to prevent mold growth within your tank. If you would simply like to use the EcoEarth a great way to prevent mold is to utilize springtail isopods. These are tiny little things that will eat all decaying waste and mold matter inside your tank and are much too small for the geckos to eat.
- In order from bottom or the tank to top: Hydroton clay balls(used as a drainage layer), screen mesh(to keep the substrate and drainage layer separate), and finally a mixture of EcoEarth(coconut fiber mixture) and Sphagnum Peat moss.
Crested geckos require a cycle of humidity throughout the day. You should mist heavily at night and lightly the following morning, while allowing the enclosure to slowly dry out during the day. Keeping this constant cycle will allow them a more comfortable shed and you will be avoiding any possible illnesses or dehydration and prevent the encouragement of mold growth. Do not over mist, for the geckos could develop respiratory infections and other nasty things. I like keeping shallow water dishes inside my gecko's enclosures so they have a constant supply of water and it also helps keeping humidity up. I recommend changing the water every two days to keep it fresh and usually your geckos will poop in it.
When Crested Geckos shed they will do so all in one piece all the while pulling it off with their mouth and consuming it. It is a rare occasion to see a crested shed its skin.
Feeding
Crested Geckos are omnivorous in the wild. Feeding on insects, fruits, and occasionally smaller vertebrates. Since it was introduced to the pet trade, many people have tried their best to imitate their natural food.
MRP
Today there are several brands of Meal Replacement Powders (MRP) that are simply dehydrated nutrients and can be mixed with water to make a palatable substance the geckos can eat. These brands are known as Repashy, Pangea Fruit Mix Complete, Big Fat Gecko, and Clark's. These foods are widely available online or at your local reptile shows.
Fruits
Aside from feeding these staple diets, you can also feed different kinds of fresh fruit as treats. It's been in my experience that geckos take a liking to Bananas, Papaya, Mango, Peach, and other tropical, non-acidic fruits.
Insects
If you're feeding one of the MRP brands I listed above you don't necessarily have to feed insects to your geckos; however, I highly recommend it. While the MRPs are complete and full of nutrients able to satiate your animals, feeding soft bodied insects allows for a greater growth rate and development.
Great examples of insects to feed your geckos would be crickets, roaches, and wax or silk worms.
MRP
Today there are several brands of Meal Replacement Powders (MRP) that are simply dehydrated nutrients and can be mixed with water to make a palatable substance the geckos can eat. These brands are known as Repashy, Pangea Fruit Mix Complete, Big Fat Gecko, and Clark's. These foods are widely available online or at your local reptile shows.
Fruits
Aside from feeding these staple diets, you can also feed different kinds of fresh fruit as treats. It's been in my experience that geckos take a liking to Bananas, Papaya, Mango, Peach, and other tropical, non-acidic fruits.
Insects
If you're feeding one of the MRP brands I listed above you don't necessarily have to feed insects to your geckos; however, I highly recommend it. While the MRPs are complete and full of nutrients able to satiate your animals, feeding soft bodied insects allows for a greater growth rate and development.
Great examples of insects to feed your geckos would be crickets, roaches, and wax or silk worms.