Rhacodactylus Leachianus
The New Caledonian Giant Gecko
New Caledonian Giant Geckos come from the island known as New Caledonia, off the coast of Australia. A Leachianus, or “leachie” for short, is recognized by its large, stout body shape as an adult, it being more vocal of the New Caledonian geckos, and also it is slightly more carnivorous. This species is recognized as the largest in the world, with some locales topping off at about 14 inches from snout to vent and weighing over 400 grams. The scaleation is typically within a lichen-type pattern resembling the bark of a tree. It is described as a gecko because of its large eyes and the presence of setae on their digits that allow it to climb vertical surfaces. This specie is omnivorous, meaning that they eat fruit, insects, and even other geckos in the wild. This gecko is estimated to live up to 20+ years.
Locality
Leachianus geckos are wide-spread on the island of New Caledonia. This species can differ between size and patterning depending on the original location of the species. Surrounding the mainland are 8 separate off shore islands.
Island locales include:
Grand Terre (Mainland)
- Poindimié
- Yaté
- Mt. Humboldt
- Mt. Koghis
- Riveire Bleue
Insular (Offshore)
- Isle of Pines
- Bayonnaise (Isle C)
- Brosse (Isle D)
- Moro (Isle E)
- Nuu Ana (Isle G)
- Nuu Ami (Isle H)
- Duu Ana (Isle I)
- Caanawa (Isle K)
Information received from Leapin' Leachies .com
Island locales include:
Grand Terre (Mainland)
- Poindimié
- Yaté
- Mt. Humboldt
- Mt. Koghis
- Riveire Bleue
Insular (Offshore)
- Isle of Pines
- Bayonnaise (Isle C)
- Brosse (Isle D)
- Moro (Isle E)
- Nuu Ana (Isle G)
- Nuu Ami (Isle H)
- Duu Ana (Isle I)
- Caanawa (Isle K)
Information received from Leapin' Leachies .com
Behavior
Leachianus geckos are slightly different than their other island dwelling neighbors. They have a tendency to be slightly cage aggressive, but this is easily deterred by regular handling and making sure the gecko itself feels secure. If you are seriously scared of getting bitten while reaching inside the enclosure a simple pair of leather gloves will protect your hand from a leachie bite. They will definitely let you know vocally (barks and clicks) if they don't want you coming into their enclosure.
It's been observed that the Mainland locales are slightly more aggressive than their insular counterparts, however this does not mean that you won't receive warning barks here and there.
They can be incredibly fast as hatchlings, and equally so as adults but with a slight sluggish intent. This species also tends to cling to you during handling as if their life depended on it.
It's adorable.
Once you get past their flighty tendencies and cage aggression they really are a cool and very laid back species.
It's been observed that the Mainland locales are slightly more aggressive than their insular counterparts, however this does not mean that you won't receive warning barks here and there.
They can be incredibly fast as hatchlings, and equally so as adults but with a slight sluggish intent. This species also tends to cling to you during handling as if their life depended on it.
It's adorable.
Once you get past their flighty tendencies and cage aggression they really are a cool and very laid back species.
Health
A healthy gecko is dependent on several factors. A good way
to determine this before or after purchase (please check
out any gecko before you purchase them online, at a pet store, or at a reptile
show) is to monitor its eating and pooping habits. If you see solid brown poop
with a white urate, then that is a good indicator that it is eating and is
healthy! (Unless you are changing diets in which case runny fecal matter isn't uncommon) If you aren't fully aware of reptile anatomy, rather than having
separate orifices for excretion, they have one orifice that does all of that
called a cloaca. The cloaca, also referred to as the vent, is located at the
base of the tail and is where copulation and excretion occurs. When a
Leachianus defecates it will release both fecal matter and a white, highly
concentrated substance called urate.
Metabolic Bone Disease. You also should note of any disturbing deformities such as a kinked tail, bent back or dislocated jaw. These are common signs of an illness known as Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), which is usually caused by malnutrition or very low intake of essential Calcium that all reptiles need. Not getting enough calcium is a large factor in causing this disease. If you suspect your gecko has this disease you should adjust your husbandry accordingly, check for signs of MBD and if anything contact a licensed exotic veterinarian who has experience or base knowledge of the specie.
Skin infections. Giant Geckos are also prone to skin infections due to a too wet or too dry living space. Too wet will cause skin lesions, boils, fungal growth, and blistering. Too dry will ultimately cause your animal to dehydrate very quickly, and the skin will characteristically look very dry and shriveled and feel rough to the touch instead of the normal soft sensation normally experienced by the gecko’s skin – Not to be confused with the shedding process. This will have wrinkly, shriveled skin as well but the gecko’s coloration will be incredibly pale and loose. Something to remember about Leachianus geckos is that their skin is normally wrinkly, and shouldn’t be paired against dehydration or an upcoming shed.
Obesity. One last factor of gecko health is obesity. A common misconception is that a fat reptile is a healthy reptile – this is not true. Giant Geckos, like humans, have different builds and frames to their own individual bodies. Because of this, two geckos both at a 200 gram mark may look more plump and fatty compared to the other which may have a bit of roundness to the belly but not a rotund shape. Maintaining weight can be difficult with reptiles kept in captivity, as they never stop growing their entire lives. One thing to remember would be that just because your gecko will eat it, doesn’t mean you should give it to them. You are taking the responsibility of caring for this animal and its life; therefore you should only feed it what it needs and nothing more. If you have an overweight gecko some tips to help it lose weight would be to invest in a larger enclosure, give it some room to roam about and burn off calories, and lastly to feed it less than you already do or less frequently.
When you are trying to determine your gecko's health, another good sign is healthy weight gain/loss. Instead of how trying to figure out how old your gecko is by using months and years, the weight of the gecko is used in grams. A scale that measures to the tenth of a gram is recommended. Do not be alarmed if your gecko drops a few grams in weight. Just like humans, they can have weight fluctuations depending on their activity and space inside their enclosure. As long as there isn't a serious plummet in weight and your gecko is defecating and eating correctly then it is a healthy weight drop.
A lot of the time I will see someone worried about their gecko being dehydrated because its eyes are sunken in. This is not always the case, as crested geckos and other New Caledonian species lack eyelids. Because of this, while they are sleeping or if they go to take a bite out of something they will pull their eyes within their sockets to protect them. New Caledonians also have a thin eye cap as extra protection that comes off and is replaced during the shedding process. You will also notice your gecko licking their eyes so as to remove any particles that may have landed on the cap, simply to clean it off.
When you receive a new gecko, whether it was from a trusted breeder or new seller it is always recommended to put the animal through a quarantine period. This time usually lasts for only a month. The significance of this method is to monitor healthy deification of the animal and to determine whether or not it has an illness that may affect your other animals.
Metabolic Bone Disease. You also should note of any disturbing deformities such as a kinked tail, bent back or dislocated jaw. These are common signs of an illness known as Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), which is usually caused by malnutrition or very low intake of essential Calcium that all reptiles need. Not getting enough calcium is a large factor in causing this disease. If you suspect your gecko has this disease you should adjust your husbandry accordingly, check for signs of MBD and if anything contact a licensed exotic veterinarian who has experience or base knowledge of the specie.
Skin infections. Giant Geckos are also prone to skin infections due to a too wet or too dry living space. Too wet will cause skin lesions, boils, fungal growth, and blistering. Too dry will ultimately cause your animal to dehydrate very quickly, and the skin will characteristically look very dry and shriveled and feel rough to the touch instead of the normal soft sensation normally experienced by the gecko’s skin – Not to be confused with the shedding process. This will have wrinkly, shriveled skin as well but the gecko’s coloration will be incredibly pale and loose. Something to remember about Leachianus geckos is that their skin is normally wrinkly, and shouldn’t be paired against dehydration or an upcoming shed.
Obesity. One last factor of gecko health is obesity. A common misconception is that a fat reptile is a healthy reptile – this is not true. Giant Geckos, like humans, have different builds and frames to their own individual bodies. Because of this, two geckos both at a 200 gram mark may look more plump and fatty compared to the other which may have a bit of roundness to the belly but not a rotund shape. Maintaining weight can be difficult with reptiles kept in captivity, as they never stop growing their entire lives. One thing to remember would be that just because your gecko will eat it, doesn’t mean you should give it to them. You are taking the responsibility of caring for this animal and its life; therefore you should only feed it what it needs and nothing more. If you have an overweight gecko some tips to help it lose weight would be to invest in a larger enclosure, give it some room to roam about and burn off calories, and lastly to feed it less than you already do or less frequently.
When you are trying to determine your gecko's health, another good sign is healthy weight gain/loss. Instead of how trying to figure out how old your gecko is by using months and years, the weight of the gecko is used in grams. A scale that measures to the tenth of a gram is recommended. Do not be alarmed if your gecko drops a few grams in weight. Just like humans, they can have weight fluctuations depending on their activity and space inside their enclosure. As long as there isn't a serious plummet in weight and your gecko is defecating and eating correctly then it is a healthy weight drop.
A lot of the time I will see someone worried about their gecko being dehydrated because its eyes are sunken in. This is not always the case, as crested geckos and other New Caledonian species lack eyelids. Because of this, while they are sleeping or if they go to take a bite out of something they will pull their eyes within their sockets to protect them. New Caledonians also have a thin eye cap as extra protection that comes off and is replaced during the shedding process. You will also notice your gecko licking their eyes so as to remove any particles that may have landed on the cap, simply to clean it off.
When you receive a new gecko, whether it was from a trusted breeder or new seller it is always recommended to put the animal through a quarantine period. This time usually lasts for only a month. The significance of this method is to monitor healthy deification of the animal and to determine whether or not it has an illness that may affect your other animals.
Sexing
When you want to determine the sex of your gecko you can use a magnifying jeweler's loupe to check for pre-anal pores. These can be identified by looking just above the cloacal spurs and on the undersides of the hind legs. On a male, before it drops its hemi-penal bulge you will see a "v" shaped row of black dots on the scales. On a female there is an absence of these pores and a bulge.
If you cannot get your hands on a loupe the next best thing is to watch your gecko grow and whether it drops a bulge on you or not!
If you cannot get your hands on a loupe the next best thing is to watch your gecko grow and whether it drops a bulge on you or not!
Housing
Before I get into details about this matter I need to point out one very important factor about keeping these geckos: HOUSE SEPARATELY. Giant geckos are not social animals, they are very solitary and will bite, nip, and attack tank mates at any given time. I also acknowledge stories where some people have successfully kept these geckos together with no issues; however, these geckos were peaceful with each other one day and territorial the next. It's better to be SAFE THAN SORRY. I promise you.
There are many kinds of housing ideas you could use for your gecko. The main thing you're going to want to remember is that they are arboreal reptiles. This simply means they like vertical enclosures rather than horizontal ones such as you would give a bearded dragon. They also appreciate tons of foliage in which to hide in during the day and vines to get around their enclosure during the night while they're active.
Ways that you could provide this type of enclosure is by purchasing an ExoTerra or Zoomed reptile terrarium from your local pet store or online. They produce specific tanks perfect for arboreal reptiles. When you purchase an ExoTerra or ZooMed tank, these are perfect for your sub-adult to adult gecko, depending on size. If you're looking to house a hatchling or juvenile you're going to want something a bit smaller. A large sized Kritter Keeper works well for them. If you cannot afford or do not have access to these brands of tanks, I have successfully kept hatchlings to juveniles within 16 quart Sterilite brand plastic bins. If you do go this route I advise you to go out and purchase a cheap wood burning tool that has a rounded tip to puncture ventilation holes for the bin to prevent mold growth.
Giant geckos generally grow at a much better pace when there is enough humidity in their enclosure and if they are kept at an adequate temperature. It is speculated that this is in accordance with their mucous membranes in being able to smell their food.
There are many kinds of housing ideas you could use for your gecko. The main thing you're going to want to remember is that they are arboreal reptiles. This simply means they like vertical enclosures rather than horizontal ones such as you would give a bearded dragon. They also appreciate tons of foliage in which to hide in during the day and vines to get around their enclosure during the night while they're active.
Ways that you could provide this type of enclosure is by purchasing an ExoTerra or Zoomed reptile terrarium from your local pet store or online. They produce specific tanks perfect for arboreal reptiles. When you purchase an ExoTerra or ZooMed tank, these are perfect for your sub-adult to adult gecko, depending on size. If you're looking to house a hatchling or juvenile you're going to want something a bit smaller. A large sized Kritter Keeper works well for them. If you cannot afford or do not have access to these brands of tanks, I have successfully kept hatchlings to juveniles within 16 quart Sterilite brand plastic bins. If you do go this route I advise you to go out and purchase a cheap wood burning tool that has a rounded tip to puncture ventilation holes for the bin to prevent mold growth.
Giant geckos generally grow at a much better pace when there is enough humidity in their enclosure and if they are kept at an adequate temperature. It is speculated that this is in accordance with their mucous membranes in being able to smell their food.
Requirements
New Caledonian Geckos do incredibly well in temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees, room temperature. It is ok for the temperature to go down below 70 during the night, but not below 65 degrees. Any temperature above 80 degrees will stress your gecko.
Since these geckos are nocturnal and maintain well in room temperatures there is absolutely no need for a UVB or heat lamp. They will receive any and all their required nutrients from their food. They do need a constant day/night cycle, however. It is suggested to keep them in a room with windows so as to let natural sunlight and moonlight in. Do not place your geckos directly in front of windows or doors.
When trying to decide what substrate you should go with, I always recommend a simple layer of paper towel. It's cheap, easy to clean, and you only have to change it out once a week along with daily spot checks for poops. If you would like a more naturalistic look, a good idea would be to use a mixture of Hydroton Clay balls, screen mesh, EcoEarth and sphagnum peat moss. Of course you need to layer these, not mix them all together. This method is to prevent mold growth within your tank. If you would simply like to use the EcoEarth a great way to prevent mold is to utilize springtail isopods. These are tiny little things that will eat all decaying waste and mold matter inside your tank and are much too small for the geckos to eat.
Giant geckos require a cycle of humidity throughout the day. You should mist heavily at night and lightly the following morning, while allowing the enclosure to slowly dry out during the day. Keeping this constant cycle will allow them a more comfortable shed and you will be avoiding any possible illnesses or dehydration and prevent the encouragement of mold growth. Do not over mist, for the geckos could develop respiratory infections and other nasty things. I like keeping shallow water dishes inside my gecko's enclosures so they have a constant supply of water and it also helps keeping humidity up. I recommend changing the water every two days to keep it fresh and usually your geckos will poop in it.
When Giant geckos shed they will do so all in one piece all the while pulling it off with their mouth and consuming it. It is a rare occasion to see them shed their skin.
Since these geckos are nocturnal and maintain well in room temperatures there is absolutely no need for a UVB or heat lamp. They will receive any and all their required nutrients from their food. They do need a constant day/night cycle, however. It is suggested to keep them in a room with windows so as to let natural sunlight and moonlight in. Do not place your geckos directly in front of windows or doors.
When trying to decide what substrate you should go with, I always recommend a simple layer of paper towel. It's cheap, easy to clean, and you only have to change it out once a week along with daily spot checks for poops. If you would like a more naturalistic look, a good idea would be to use a mixture of Hydroton Clay balls, screen mesh, EcoEarth and sphagnum peat moss. Of course you need to layer these, not mix them all together. This method is to prevent mold growth within your tank. If you would simply like to use the EcoEarth a great way to prevent mold is to utilize springtail isopods. These are tiny little things that will eat all decaying waste and mold matter inside your tank and are much too small for the geckos to eat.
- In order from bottom or the tank to top: Hydroton clay balls(used as a drainage layer), screen mesh(to keep the substrate and drainage layer separate), and finally a mixture of EcoEarth(coconut fiber mixture) and Sphagnum Peat moss.
Giant geckos require a cycle of humidity throughout the day. You should mist heavily at night and lightly the following morning, while allowing the enclosure to slowly dry out during the day. Keeping this constant cycle will allow them a more comfortable shed and you will be avoiding any possible illnesses or dehydration and prevent the encouragement of mold growth. Do not over mist, for the geckos could develop respiratory infections and other nasty things. I like keeping shallow water dishes inside my gecko's enclosures so they have a constant supply of water and it also helps keeping humidity up. I recommend changing the water every two days to keep it fresh and usually your geckos will poop in it.
When Giant geckos shed they will do so all in one piece all the while pulling it off with their mouth and consuming it. It is a rare occasion to see them shed their skin.
Feeding
Giant Geckos are omnivorous in the wild. Feeding on insects, fruits, and occasionally smaller vertebrates. Since it was introduced to the pet trade, many people have tried their best to imitate their natural food.
MRP
Today there are several brands of Meal Replacement Powders (MRP) that are simply dehydrated nutrients and can be mixed with water to make a palatable substance the geckos can eat. These brands are known as Repashy, Pangea Fruit Mix Complete, Big Fat Gecko, and Clark's. These foods are widely available online or at your local reptile shows.
Fruits
Aside from feeding these staple diets, you can also feed different kinds of fresh fruit as treats. It's been in my experience that geckos take a liking to Bananas, Papaya, Mango, Peach, and other tropical, non-acidic fruits.
Insects
If you're feeding one of the MRP brands I listed above you don't necessarily have to feed insects to your geckos; however, I highly recommend it. While the MRPs are complete and full of nutrients able to satiate your animals, feeding soft bodied insects allows for a greater growth rate and development.
Great examples of insects to feed your geckos would be crickets, roaches, and wax or silk worms.
In my experience leachies don't readily accept feeder insects, though it's good to try every now and again.
MRP
Today there are several brands of Meal Replacement Powders (MRP) that are simply dehydrated nutrients and can be mixed with water to make a palatable substance the geckos can eat. These brands are known as Repashy, Pangea Fruit Mix Complete, Big Fat Gecko, and Clark's. These foods are widely available online or at your local reptile shows.
Fruits
Aside from feeding these staple diets, you can also feed different kinds of fresh fruit as treats. It's been in my experience that geckos take a liking to Bananas, Papaya, Mango, Peach, and other tropical, non-acidic fruits.
Insects
If you're feeding one of the MRP brands I listed above you don't necessarily have to feed insects to your geckos; however, I highly recommend it. While the MRPs are complete and full of nutrients able to satiate your animals, feeding soft bodied insects allows for a greater growth rate and development.
Great examples of insects to feed your geckos would be crickets, roaches, and wax or silk worms.
In my experience leachies don't readily accept feeder insects, though it's good to try every now and again.